Sunday, November 16, 2008

Photo No!

We went out for a lovely walk today. Sunday is a great day for walking in Beirut because so much is closed and there's almost a peacefulness on the streets. Every other day from sunrise to sunset there is traffic and trash and such chaos sometimes you just want to hibernate. But Sundays the hectic lives of Beirutians settles down a bit and those people that you do see are enjoying the quiet, too. Here are a few of the interesting sights we captured along our walk out of Hamra, through downtown, and into another section called Gemmazey.

These two above are from Gemmazey. It's one of the few sections of Beirut that still holds some of the original style and architecture from before the Civil War. It's also the place to go if you like loud clubs and dancing until 5am.

This was graffiti on one of the buildings. I'm not sure if it's a symbol of a certain group or what, but it certainly spoke to me, as if to say, what good can come from war?

This is the famous Holiday Inn that was bombed and destroyed during the Civil War. They have chose to leave it standing as a reminder for what the country went through. I tried to take a better picture but was told no. One of the sad things about Beirut is the security. Hardly a block goes by without a guard or two on the corner, usually armed with a very large weapon. Derek says it makes him feel safe to know that he is being protected. I don't think guns will ever make me feel safe. In any case, these men are not just standing at random corners. They are guarding someone or something, and part of their job is to tell curious visitors like me that photos are not allowed.


The statue above is across the street from this Mosque. If you look closely at the statue you will notice that it has been ripped to shreds by bullets. I believe it is the Statue of Martyrs. In front of this mosque there is a counter with red numbers. There are a few of these around the city, counting the days since Hariri was assassinated. Apparently the plan is to keep counting until the people who committed the crime are found and (probably) punished.



There is a small street in between Hamra and downtown that has preserved some of the older buildings and it's beautiful. The picture above is of one such building that has not been very well preserved, but with the skeleton of the house still in tact and the overflowing blossoms- the sight just took my breath away. Derek is waiting while I take this picture of the old house. The box behind him is also a familiar sight. These are the guard stations, only there was no guard here today.

Home sweet home

As a wedding gift to each other we went rug shopping for a unique Iranian rug. There are many stores in Beirut and we felt a bit intimidated because it's a hefty investment and, basically, we're completely ignorant of quality and intricacies of the rug world. We shopped around a bit and then last night out of the blue came across a lovely store with a very kind owner. It turns out he sells to a lot of the ex-pats in Hamra and we had some friends in common. He served us Turkish coffee while he and his assistant laid out over 20 rugs for us to awe over. We thought we had taken to one when the conversation turned to used rugs. Our eyes lit up at the thought of a "recycled" investment. So he showed us a few that were antique and then one that had just been delivered that morning that was less than 25 years old. It was an absolute steal and we loved it. Here it is in our living room. The place finally feels like home.


We also bought this small Sumac carpet for the hallway by the door. Ali, the owner of the carpet shop, tried to ease our ignorance by enlightening us on the various ways of making carpets. The Sumac style which is the one below, is a flat weave and it's a bit rough to the touch, as opposed to the one above which is soft like velvet. We also learned that rugs ar named after the region they come from in Iran. Each region has it's own style that they produce. What an art!



Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Douma

About two weeks ago, the director of the pre-school up in the mountains invited us to stay at her summer home for the weekend. They don't stay there themselves for the winter, so it was nearing the end of the season. This tiny village of less than a hundred houses certainly was a nice change of pace; the views speak for themselves. We hiked a bit, relaxed more, and explored around this essentially timeless village.
Interestingly, their servant was a Nepali woman!
The pictures, which include a 4000 year old olive tree (hollowed but still producing!) are found here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/caseyderek816/Douma